My purpose is to help as many people as possible. It always has been, and always will be. It is what defines me. For most of my life, the main way I helped was with people’s bodies. I have also helped people with their minds. I have also helped people with all kinds of other…
Surf
If you had stood on shore and watched it you might of said it was a foot or two less, but on it I could see. It was taller than I was. The waves had been different today. Mild on the take off, almost too mild, and then when the wave got close enough to…